ISLAND SURPRISE
Hainan, the “Hawaii of China”, is more than great climate, beaches and resorts. It promises some of the best courses in the continent as well.
Hainan, the southernmost province of China, located in the South China Sea, is often referred to as the “Hawaii of China” for many reasons. The idyllic climate, wonderful beaches and world- class resorts make it the ideal tropical destination for Chinese not wanting to leave the country.
But while tourism to the island has largely relied on domestic holidaymakers, the national government and local tourism authority are turning their sights on international travellers – notably Singaporeans – including golfers, especially now that the pandemic has passed.
Getting to Hainan Island from Singapore is easy as both Jetstar and Scoot fly direct five times a week. The three-hour flight means the journey is not much longer than that to many popular golfing destinations in Southeast Asia. As Singapore passport holders now receive 15 days visa-free travel to China, it might be time you gave Hainan Island a try.
The Mission Hills Resort is probably the most well-known golf resort in Hainan. It is just 20 minutes from Haikou airport and, like its sister properties in Shenzhen and Dongguan, occupies a huge piece of land including a 535-room, 19 storey hotel and 10 golf courses. All 10 courses are accessible by foot or a shuttle bus journey from the hotel. On my visit we played the Lava Fields course on arrival and the Blackstone course on the second day.
For the mid to high-handicap golfers, I would recommend the Lava Fields Golf Course. Designed by Schmidt-Curley Design, it is set amidst a volcanic landscape with good elevation changes, undulating fairways, and well-placed hazards, including black lava rock formations. Wide fairways and sizeable greens mean that, for the high handicapper, playing the par-72 course from the 6,025-yard white tees, or the 5,384-yard red tees, provides a gentler introduction after the early morning flight.
Lower handicaps may wish to test themselves from the gold tees at 6,801 yards. Lava Fields’ greatest defence is the many bunkers, especially those placed to catch your drives. With steep faces often a ‘just get it back in play’ shot is the only option from these fairway traps.
The Blackstone Course at Mission Hills, also designed by Schmidt- Curley, is a different prospect. Ranked among the Top 100 Courses in Asia by Golf Digest it has hosted several professional and amateur tournaments, celebrity Pro-Ams and the ‘Rory v Tiger’ challenge match. Like Lava Fields it has striking black volcanic rock formations, lush vegetation and large greens, though this time with more undulation. If you thought the size and number of bunkers on Lava Fields were challenging, then Blackstone takes it up another level.
For those crazy enough to try the par-73 layout from the black (back) tees, note that the course plays to 7,800 yards from there. Even the white tees, at 6,211 yards, is a good challenge, given the limited run on the fairways (and I play off a 4 handicap). Of note was the second hole at 623 yards from the back tees, and the 211- yard par-3 11th hole.
The feedback from many members of our group, including the ladies, was that it was too tough. From the red tees it measures 5,418 yards but plays a lot longer due to the undulations and bunkers that need to be avoided. Single- figure handicaps will enjoy the challenge, however higher handicaps might consider playing one of the other less- intimidating courses at Mission Hills.
The hotel at Mission Hills Haikou features multiple restaurants and bars serving a diverse array of cuisines, from Chinese, Japanese and international fare. Additionally, guests can indulge in recreational activities, including a spa with 168 hot and cold pools. It’s perfect after an early morning flight and a round of golf.
There is a big swimming pool with an obstacle course for kids, a wave pool, Movie Town Park and an NBA exhibition, so the non-golfers will have much to do during the day. For those who want to venture into town, Haikou, the Hainan capital, is 30 to 40 minutes away by car. There, you can find many local food options, shopping, night markets and massage facilities.
The early morning flights on Jetstar and Scoot should allow golfers to eat lunch and still get a round in at Mission Hills on the afternoon of their arrival. During November to January, it does get dark around 6pm so plan accordingly. After two nights at the Mission Hills Resort a two-hour car journey took us south to the Shenzhou Peninsula on the Eastern coast of Hainan Island. Here you can why Hainan is considered a tropical paradise, as you dig your feet into beach sand rather than bunker sand. For those that like to be close to the sea there are several great hotel options at different price points.
We stayed at the Sheraton which offers 306 amply sized rooms, a large swimming pool, restaurants and a beach bar with picturesque views of the South China Sea. The Grand Hyatt, a short distance from the Sheraton, offers 262 amazing Balinese-style rooms, set in lush gardens with sea views. With its multiple restaurants and facilities, the Grand Hyatt is worth considering for those looking for a little more luxury during their stay. A three-kilometre beach also provides numerous water sport activities at both hotels.
While there are other courses near the Shenzhou Peninsula, the must- play ones are at The Dunes. Ranked in the Top 100 Courses in Asia it is a wonderful links venue. There are two courses, East and West – both designed by the late Tom Weiskopf – and we were fortunate enough to play a composite course that combines selected holes from each. However, we were less fortunate in terms of the weather, which, for large parts of the round, was both wet and windy.
At 6,443 yards The Dunes is certainly playable from the blue tees, and the same for the ladies at 4,882 yards from the red tees. Low handicappers may wish to consider the black tees at 7,226 yards. The fairways are relatively wide, however well- placed bunkers and waste bunkers will require good strategy. Despite heavy rain before and during play the fairways drained well and there was some run out on tee shots, we did not need preferred lies.
Several holes run close to the South China Sea and offer beautiful views of the ocean and striking rock formations. From the back tees the par 5’s all measure around 550 yards and are well balanced by a couple of short par 4’s which, depending upon wind direction, give the long hitters an opportunity to get close to the green in two shots. If you go to Hainan for golf, The Dunes should be on your list.
While our group had to return to Singapore there is another popular golfing stop two hours further south. Sanya, on the southernmost tip of the Island, offers lovely resorts as well as good golfing for those who wish to stay longer on the Island. Yalong Bay is a course that is spoken about highly and on my list for a follow up visit.
With the Jetstar and Scoot return flights departing around midday an early start is required if you wish to leave from the Shenzhou Peninsula, and an even earlier start if leaving from Sanya. The alternative is to stay in the Haikou city centre the day before your flight. You can spend the time there taking in some duty-free shopping, experience the well-renowned Hainan Chicken Rice, sample local coconuts and lychees, and enjoy an evening dinner or drink on the Haikou Bund.
There are also sightseeing trips to volcanic craters and wildlife parks. For those who don’t wish to take another lengthy car journey, a high-speed train connects both the Shenzhou Peninsula and Sanya with Haikou airport. Transport for golf clubs can be arranged in advance to save you from needing to struggle with them on the train.
If you are looking for a new golf experience, I would strongly recommend Hainan Island. It offers both city hotels and beach resorts, all at differing price points. The golf courses are excellent and there is enough variety to suit both men and lady players of all abilities. In terms of timing, the best weather is generally November to April when it is cooler and there is less chance of rain, the downside to this time is that the courses do get busy, and prices go up. The summer months offer lower prices though the temperatures and humidity are more akin to that of Singapore.
Take note of China domestic holidays when planning your trip, including school holidays, as even in the summer, this pushes hotel prices up. Non-Mandarin speakers will face challenges conversing outside of the large hotels. Google translate can help, but communication can be an issue. If it’s your first trip to Hainan or you are in a large group, I would recommend using a travel agent who knows island. The agent will put together an itinerary to suit your requirements, enabling you to enjoy all the Hawaii of China has to offer.